Fishing the Grass for Summertime Bass

    Take a look at any of Arizona's large desert reservoirs in the summertime and you will find many bass boats pushed back 30 to 40 yards off the bank targeting deep underwater structure like ledges and points.  For many reasons main lake points are a great place to target summertime bass.  However, something else you will find in the summertime at any of Arizona's large desert reservoirs are jet skis, wake boarders, and large party barges.  When fishing from a bass boat these party-goers can be an annoyance and distraction, but when fishing from a 10 foot kayak, the scenario becomes dangerous and can make fishing nearly impossible.

    When I can't fish these desirable summertime locations, I'm forced to look elsewhere.  Somewhere off the main lake in a small protected shallow cove.  To know what to look for I consider what it is about a main lake point that makes it so attractive to a big lazy bass.  Bass will setup on a point to ambush their prey as they travel across, especially when there is a current or steady wind blowing across the point.  The point also makes it quick and easy for bass to travel from cooler deep water where they relax to shallow water to feed.  Bass will move around a point all day long, moving in fairly predictable patters on that point.  The key here is not depth, rather it is cool, oxygenated water filled with an abundance of food. 

    Shallow grass contains the same key properties as main lake points.  The dense cover provides shade and cool water, and the abundance or green vegetation provides plenty of oxygen even in the warmest of water.  In the late spring/early summer bluegill will spawn in these grassy flats providing plenty of food for bass all summer long.  The problem with fishing grass is the frustration it causes for many anglers.  Snags happen, and constantly pulling weeds off your lure between each cast might cause a rise in blood-pressure.  You've got to realize however that if you are not getting snagged, if you are not constantly pulling weeds off your line, you're probably not catching fish either!

    I'm going to outline a few techniques you can use to help pull in some "bass salad", but first we need to differentiate the types of grass.  There are several different types of grass, lots of different names of grass, densities of grass, colors of grass, and textures of grass.  Try not to get lost in all the minor details you hear about, for practicality's sake, there are two types of grass: submerged grass (grass that is entirely underwater), and emergent grass (grass that grows past the surface of the water creating mats on the surface and hollow tunnels beneath).  Look for submerged grass in 5 to 15 feet of water, and emergent grass in the 2 to 5 foot range.  Think back to the main lake point discussed earlier, bass will feed where it's shallow, and rest where it's deep.  In grass, the opposite is true.  Bass will be actively feeding in the deeper submerged grass and will retreat to the shade and safety of the shallow emergent grass as the day goes on.  Below are four techniques you can try this summer too hook into a monster covered in weeds:

1. Lipless Crank

Rod: 7' Medium Heavy - Fast Casting Rod

Reel: High Speed 7:1 Baitcaster

Line: 15 lb Flurocarbon or Monofilament

Color: Shad or Bluegill Imitation

    I use a Strike King Red Eye Shad in submerged grass at a depth of about ten feet (this means the bottom is ten feet deep, the top of the grass will be around 5 feet below the surface).  Early in the morning I will focus on the outside edge of the grass.  Cast out and retrieve parallel to the outside of the grass edge.  I try to keep the lure just off the bottom, below the top of the grass.  Later in the day I will fish this lure over the top of the grass.  I'll cast out as far as I can, count it down about five feet and burn it back in just over the top, occasionally letting the lure drop and tick the top.  If I feel it get snagged, a couple quick pops on slack line will rip it free, sometimes causing a reaction strike.  If I can see a gap or hole in the grass I'll burn it over the top and stop right above the gap in vegetation.  Drop the rod tip down and let the Red Eye Shad shimmy down to the bottom on slack line.  Often times a bass will bust out of the grass and hit it on the fall.

2.  Mojo Rig

Rod: 6 1/2' Medium - Fast Spinning Rod

Reel: 5:1 Spinning Reel

Line: 20 lb Hi-Vis Braid, 8 lb Fluro leader

Worm: 4 inch Cactus Wren Talking Stick - Shad Color

    The Mojo Rig is similar to the old school Split Shot Rig with two major differences.  The weight is a thin cylinder shape, this allows it to be pulled through the grass smoothly without getting hung up like a round split shot weight.  Also, the weight is threaded onto the line and pegged to the line rather than crimped on.  Crimping on a weight will damage the line and you risk breaking off a fish, especially when using light weight fluorocarbon.  To peg the weight I use a couple strands of jig hair, pulled through using the discarded tag end of line from tying the hook on.  This also allows you to easily adjust where you want the weight while still being snug enough to stay in place. 

    I fish it similar to the lipless crank above, but with a slower and more erratic retrieve.  Again, earlier in the morning I'll stick to the outside edge, later in the day I'll retrieve it right over the top.  If the fish are especially tight lipped, try taking the weight off and working the worm weightless incredibly slowly letting it rest right right on top of the grass.

3.  Punching Mats

Rod: 7 1/2' Heavy - Fast Casting Rod

Reel: High-Speed 7:1 Baitcaster

Line: 40-65 lb braid

Lure: Slim Crawfish or Rodent style bait

Weight: 1oz Tungsten Bullet Weight

    Punching is a technique for the shallow emergent grass that causes mats on the surface.  Ideally you should be pitching into these grass mats in about 2 1/2 feet of water.  Heavy braided line and a slim presentation is important as your goal is to "punch" the bait right through the heavy cover.

    Punching is all about triggering a reaction strike, there's no need for stealth or finesse. This is power fishing at its most powerful, work it fast and cover a lot of water with it.  While punching, there are three components that will trigger the bite:

The bait violently crashing through the surface vegetation.

The heavy weight pounding the bottom.

The bait smacking against the bottom of the mats as you bring it back in.

    I would argue that the heavy abusive weight is more important than the plastic.  That craw or rodent is just a means to keep the hook from snagging on the grass.  It's important not to "texpose" the hook, burry it in there good so that the whole rig can slide through the cover.  Keep the weight pegged to the hook with a toothpick or bobber stopper.  If you find yourself missing fish on the hook set try using a snell knot on a straight shanked flippin' hook.  However I prefer an offset round-bend hook because it keeps the whole rig slimmer.

4.  Weedless Wacky Weightless (Try saying that five times fast)

Rod: 6 1/2' Medium Heavy - Fast Casting Rod

Reel: High-Speed 7:1 Baitcaster

Line: At least 15 lb Flurocarbon

Worm:  5 or 6 inch Cactus Wren Talking Stick or Stick Bait

    You won't be able to get this bait through the thick mats, so look for openings in the mats, or toss it beside the matted weed line into more open water.  When you find a hole to drop it into, toss it in and let it sink as far as it will go.  Wait for a few seconds and then shake it lightly on slack line.  Sometimes it'll drop further, sometimes a fish will eat it, but most of the time nothing will happen.  Reel it in and find another hole.

    This is a technique for both emergent and submerged grass.  You have to be more patient when fishing it in submerged grass as you will be fishing it deeper and the bait drops very slowly.  As you let it sink on slack line, be sure to watch the line the whole way down, you usually won't feel the initial hit and if you wait too long you have a good chance of gut hooking the fish.

    If you're only fishing submerged grass, you might consider using lighter tackle.  A medium powered spinning rod and 8 to 10 lb test line would be sufficient.

    I hope that gives you a new technique or two to try out the next time you hit the water.  If I've helped you catch a fish let me know in the comments!  Any other techniques you use while fishing grass?  Tell us about those in the comments as well!

    Tight lines, and I hope to see you out on the water!